This tool is used to weld a small steel pin (or stud) to a dent in a steel body panel. Then a special pull-hammer is used to hammer the stud outward.

The outer copper ring is negative and the center copper nipple is positively charged. When the trigger is pulled these metal parts are energized.

Of course, this tool needs to be pushed up against the bare steel for anything to happen.

To use the stud gun, the tip is pressed against the bare steel. When the trigger is squeezed, electric current flows through the tip and fuses the stud to the car body.

The dented area needs to be bare metal... all the paint must be removed around the stud location. The bare metal spot needs to be at least the size of a quarter, perhaps bigger.

Once the stud is attached to the car body, the stud welder gun is pulled away, leaving the metal rod attached to the car.

Some dents can benefit from multiple studs. It's best to install all of the desired studs, let the metal cool, and then do the dent pulling.

Since this dent was a long skinny crease about 4 inches long, Jim attached 4 studs, about an inch apart.

Jim gave the slide hammer one good whack and the dented metal pulled out. Using a slide hammer takes some practice to develop the right touch.

Finishing Touches:

Once the dent had been pounded outward, Jim applied a thin coating of plastic filler (a.k.a. Bondo).

When the filler was hard he sanded the area smooth and level, then he primed and painted the entire area that needed to be repaired.

Tool Kit:

These dent-pulling tools can be purchased as a set, which sell in the range of $250 to $450.

The small tool on the lower left is a hand-puller, which is for light-duty dent pulling where hand pressure is often all you need.

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